【Aizu】 Higashiyama Onsen｜Tsuruya Higashiyama Sohonzan — A One-Group-Per-Day Luxury Ryokan with Concierge Butler

Nestled in the quiet valley of Aizu-Wakamatsu, “Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan” is an exclusive luxury ryokan welcoming only one group per day. Enjoy an authentic Aizu kaiseki dinner served in a private irori room, along with personalized hospitality from your dedicated concierge butler—offering a uniquely Japanese, indulgent stay.

【Introduction】Basashi: Aizu’s Famous Horse Sashimi

When visiting Aizu in Fukushima, one local specialty you absolutely shouldn’t miss is basashi—horse sashimi. Fukushima is known as one of Japan’s “Three Great Basashi Regions,” and its unique chewy texture and rich, juicy flavor have long captivated travelers. Today, there is even a ryokan in Fukushima quietly gaining a reputation for serving “the best basashi in the world.” This isTsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan—a luxury inn where you can savor carefully selected, top-grade horse sashimi along with attentive service from a dedicated concierge butler.

In this article, I’ll share my experience staying at this remarkable ryokan, and the impressions that left a lasting mark on me.

【Pick-Up Service】A One-Group-Per-Day Luxury Experience

When I arrived at Koriyama Station, I was greeted outside by a staff member dressed impeccably in a tuxedo. To my surprise, the pick-up car was a Mercedes-Benz—a touch that instantly set the tone for this exclusive, one-group-per-day stay. Since public transportation in the Aizu region is limited compared to Tokyo,choosing a ryokan that offers station pick-up can make your trip much smoother and more comfortable. 

After getting into the car, it took only about 10 minutes to reach the ryokan. As I marveled at the comfort of my very first ride in a luxury vehicle, the staff member driving kindly shared a brief history of Mt. Iimori, a famous local sightseeing spot located right in front of the inn.

Mt. Imori is one of Aizu’s most iconic landmarks, known for its deep connection to the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps). It sits just across the road from the ryokan, making it a perfect spot for a refreshing morning walk the next day.

【The Stay】The Charm of Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan

A Beautiful Traditional Japanese House

The first thing that catches your eye upon arrival is the stunning traditional Japanese-style building. Harmonizing beautifully with the surrounding pines and greenery, the architecture is so picturesque that you’ll immediately want to take a photo. Its elegant presence made me excited even before stepping inside, wondering what kind of stay awaited me.

Check-In & Welcome Drink

The first place I was guided to upon arrival was this beautiful tatami room. In the alcove, a hanging scroll and traditional crafts were displayed—subtle touches that reflect Aizu’s refined aesthetic sense. Discovering local craftsmanship during a trip always feels special, and I truly enjoy those moments of quietly observing these hidden treasures.Check-in takes place in this room, and I was immediately impressed by the staff’s warm smile and graceful demeanor. I usually find the check-in process a bit tedious, but here it felt like an integral part of their hospitality—so pleasant that the time passed in the blink of an eye.

We then moved to the adjoining room, where a welcome drink was served. Freshly whisked matcha and a traditional sweet were presented before me in a serene tea room—a setting so beautiful it felt like a scene from a Japanese film. I visited in early November, when autumn colors in eastern Japan are at their peak. The vibrant gradation of red, yellow, and gold leaves outside the window naturally brought a sense of calm and richness to my heart. It was the kind of space that makes you want to sit quietly with a book, write a poem, or simply enjoy the moment.

The tea room, the main building, and the breathtaking scenery unfolding right before your eyes—knowing that all of this is prepared exclusively for just one group each day is an indescribable luxury.

The Royal Suite of Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan

This is the Royal Suite, the one and only room available to a single group each day. While preserving a traditional Japanese atmosphere, the space features modern Scandinavian-inspired furnishings that create a refined and luxurious design. The entire floor is covered with soft-toned tatami, and walking on it barefoot felt incredibly soothing—the gentle texture easing the fatigue in my feet with every step.

To the left, behind a set of shoji screens, is the bedroom featuring a Simmons bed. When the screens are opened, the entire suite becomes one spacious, open room; when closed, they create a comfortable private space. I loved being able to change the atmosphere depending on my mood.

What truly stands out, however, is the terrace on the right side of the room. The soft rustling of bamboo leaves and the gentle murmur of the river created a soothing soundscape, and enjoying a small fire in the central fire pit became one of the most memorable moments of my stay.

And it’s not only the terrace where you can enjoy the bamboo grove up close. This private bath, directly connected to the suite, quickly became my favorite place—where I spent most of my time during the stay, as someone who loves bathing. A sweeping view of the bamboo forest unfolds right before your eyes, creating an incredible sense of openness, as if you’re wrapped in greenery itself. The water is a luxurious sulfate hot spring, known for promoting skin regeneration and leaving you feeling wonderfully refreshed. The floor is lined with tatami-style mats, which stay non-slippery even when wet and feel smooth and gentle underfoot. I often visit onsen facilities in Tokyo, but a bath area with tatami flooring is quite rare—so as a hot-spring lover, I couldn’t help but get a little excited. What surprised me even more was the presence of a private sauna, fully equipped and perfectly in line with Japan’s recent sauna boom.

・A breathtaking view of the bamboo grove
・Comfortable tatami-style flooring
・A high-performance shower head
・A private sauna

With all of these features combined, I couldn’t help but say, “I can’t believe it has everything.”

Spending time in this bathroom—surrounded by the presence of the bamboo forest and the gentle sound of the wind—felt like a bathing experience wrapped in the heart of the forest itself.

After getting out of the bath, I settled into the lounge and enjoyed a slow, relaxing drink.
As you can see, this ryokan is designed so that every luxury can be enjoyed without ever leaving your suite. What makes it even more special is that the stay is all-inclusive. I usually feel a bit hesitant about ordering drinks when I travel, but thanks to this style, I was able to enjoy everything completely freely—and truly relax.

Another signature feature of Tsuruga Higashiyama Sohonzan lies right here:
your drinks are served by your personal concierge butler. During my stay, the butler shared a fascinating anecdote—that in parts of Northern Europe, “concierge butler” is sometimes described as a butler who can use magic. Hearing this for the first time felt almost enchanting, and the phrase stirred my curiosity in the most delightful way.

One of the joys of visiting a bar is the conversation with the bartender, and this ryokan offers that entire experience—within the comfort of your stay. It’s a level of hospitality so rare in Japan that it truly makes the place stand out.

Here, you can enjoy a curated selection of sake, along with beer, champagne, and more. Even if you’re not familiar with Japanese sake, your concierge butler will kindly guide you and recommend options that suit your taste, so you can relax with confidence. After fully savoring the comforts of the suite, it was finally time for dinner.

Aizu Kaiseki Dinner Around the Irori Hearth

Dinner is a beautifully refined expression of Aizu’s traditional cuisine—crafted from ingredients nurtured by the region’s climate and culture, and elevated with thoughtful technique. Blessed with four distinct seasons and diverse microclimates, Aizu is home to a wide variety of agricultural products, and only the finest of these are selected for the meal.

According to the head chef, “In the countryside, nothing makes us happier than seeing guests so full that they can’t finish everything.” True to his words, the menu was quite generous. Yet the more I ate, the more it felt as though I was tasting the culture and spirit of Aizu itself—and I found myself unable to put my chopsticks down.

Tonight’s Menu

・Aizu Kozuyu (traditional celebratory soup)
・Charcoal-grilled river fish from the pure streams of Okuaizu, cooked over the irori
・Aizu Celebration Dish： Tempura Manjū
・Aizu Brand Basashi (premium horse sashimi)
・House Specialty: Five Kinds of Sake Appetizers
・Tsuruga’s Sakura Nabe (Aizu-certified horse hotpot)
・Aizu Soba with Nishin Tempura, served with Aizu sango-hachi pickles
・Homemade ice cream with Aizu fruits, brown-sugar sweet beans & yomogi mochi

Each dish carried a piece of Aizu’s history—turning the entire dinner into a journey through the region’s culture.

The Cultural Stories Behind Aizu’s Traditional Cuisine

Aizu’s signature local dish, kozuyu, is a clear soup made with a delicately flavored broth extracted from dried scallops. The clarity of the broth and its gentle, comforting umami are truly remarkable. Even within Aizu, the ingredients and seasoning vary from region to region, so trying different versions as you travel around can be a delightful way to experience the area’s culinary culture.

Other dishes, such as herring pickled with sansho pepper and simmered dried cod, come from Aizu’s traditional preservation food culture. These recipes are deeply connected to the region’s unique history—particularly the period when landlocked Aizu governed parts of Hokkaido. They are, quite literally, dishes with a story. Served in elegant Aizu lacquerware, renowned for its deep, glossy finish, the meal was a feast not only for the palate but also for the eyes.

  Aizu Samurai Kaiseki: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

The Aizu Samurai Kaiseki crafted by Chef Iritani honors long-standing traditions while also exploring new expressions by pairing them with ingredients from around the world. Each dish offered a surprising combination found nowhere else—an experience where the timeless essence of Aizu and fresh, modern creativity seemed to travel side by side in perfect harmony.

“Go with the Butler’s Recommendation” for Local Sake

Aizu is one of Japan’s premier sake regions. Fukushima Prefecture continues to hold the top spot for the most gold-medal winners at the Annual Japan Sake Awards, and even within Fukushima, Aizu is known for its high concentration of breweries. Savoring locally brewed sake—carefully selected by the butler—while gazing into the irori hearth was an utterly blissful moment.

The Night I Encountered the World’s Finest Basashi

The undisputed highlight of dinner was this stunning, jewel-like basashi (horse sashimi).
As the dish was brought to the table, a staff member remarked, “Once you try this, your idea of basashi will change forever.” To be honest, I’d never been very fond of raw meat—many people are put off by the smell or toughness that sometimes lingers.
But the basashi I tasted here swept away every one of those worries in an instant.

They served three cuts—round, loin, and fillet—paired with a house-made dipping sauce of spicy miso soy and fragrant sesame. Among them, the fillet is considered an exceptionally rare cut, often called the “Chateaubriand of horse.” Following their recommended order, I dipped the fillet into the spicy miso soy sauce and took my first bite. In that very instant, I was stunned. The meat melted away before I had the chance to chew, releasing a deep, elegant richness that bloomed across my palate. Within seconds, my entire mouth was filled with pure happiness. And above all, the spicy miso soy was an astonishingly perfect match—the gentle heat of the miso and the aromatic soy brought out the natural sweetness of the meat in the most beautiful way.

To be honest, after tasting basashi this good, I’m not sure I’ll be satisfied anywhere else for a while. That’s how powerful and memorable this experience was. The place originally started as a specialty basashi restaurant and now also operates as an izakaya (reservation required), so I truly hope more people will get the chance to experience this remarkable flavor at least once.

A meal experience shaped by the exclusivity of “one group per day”

It was, in every sense, a slow, luxurious moment—something only possible because they host just one group a day. The private room with an irori hearth felt truly special, and each course expressed the history and culture of Aizu through its ingredients and presentation. Every dish carried the chef’s dedication, and the service was timed with such precision that each plate arrived at the perfect moment. This level of thoughtful hospitality has earned the inn a loyal following, and it seems many celebrities return time and again for the experience.

【Conclusion】Discovering a New Side of Japan in Aizu

Japan is filled with countless charms that have yet to be widely known—its cuisine, its culture, and the people who continue to preserve the traditions rooted in each region. During this trip, I was reminded of the profound depth of Aizu, even within my home prefecture of Fukushima. The history woven into its ryokan, the food culture shaped by its rugged climate, and the spirit of hospitality passed down through generations—each one felt like a quiet, unmistakable expression of Japan’s beauty.

Traveling through Aizu reveals something important: beyond the Japan we think we know lies another Japan we have yet to encounter. And once you experience it, Aizu will surely become a place where you’ll want to return again and again.