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Interview

【Fukushima, Toryukan】 Ancient hot spring wisdom and a deep connection to the land. A timeless experience at Toryukan

Yunogami Onsen in Shimogo, Minamiaizu District, Fukushima Prefecture, is a hot spring area along a canyon that feels like a hidden village. In this land, Toryukan continues to provide hot springs, fine cuisine, and a unique sense of time while honoring its long history. We spoke with the owners about the history of Toryukan, their commitment to food, their approach to hospitality, and their passion for continuing the inn in this region.

(Left) Owner, Shigenaga Hoshi
(Right) Okami, Mio Hoshi

A culinary inn with 12 rooms nestled in Yunogami Onsen. Its charm lies in the free-flowing natural hot springs and deep Japanese cuisine that showcases Aizu ingredients.

The Roots of Toryukan: Pioneering Hot Spring Culture in Yunogami

—First, please tell us how Hoshinoi first began.

Owner: It started with my mother 50 years ago. Around that time homes in Yunokami Onsen could finally draw hot spring water. My mother decided to start a business since we had the water. It began as a guesthouse at first.

—So your family had no background in hospitality?

Owner: That is right. We were originally a sake brewery. We had no experience running an inn. Our relatives were against the idea. But my mother pushed past the opposition. She insisted on doing it. That was the beginning of Hoshinoi.

—What is the meaning behind the name Magokoro-no-yado (The Inn of Sincerity)? 

Owner: I did not hear the exact reason from my mother. I believe it was simply her lifelong policy. She wanted guests to be happy and to feel like coming back. I think that sincere wish is where the name comes from.

Toryukan: A New Chapter for the 100th Anniversary

― When was the current Toryukan established?

 Owner: Toryukan was built in 1990, which was the 100th anniversary of Shimizuya Ryokan. To mark that milestone, the previous owner, my father, built Toryukan because he wanted to create this specific type of inn. It is like a 100th anniversary memorial building. We now operate primarily from this location.

― That means your history as an inn is very long, but the Toryukan building itself is relatively new. 

Owner: Yes. The total history of the inn is about 135 years, but the current Toryukan was born during that milestone period.

Indoor Baths in Every Room

―A unique feature of Toryukan is that every room has an indoor bath. Is this rare? 

Owner: While many inns now have outdoor baths in every room, our family has always valued indoor bath culture. We have a history of working very hard to bring the hot spring water up to the inn, so we want to share that culture with our guests. That is why we provide indoor baths rather than outdoor ones in the guest rooms. 

―And the water is free-flowing from the source, right? 

Owner: Yes. We only have 12 rooms, but every room has a free-flowing indoor bath. Including the family baths and others, we have about 20 bathtubs in total. To keep all of those free-flowing requires a massive amount of water, so I don’t think many other inns do it this way.

Yunogami Onsen: The Charm of a Hidden Village

―What do you think is the charm of Yunogami Onsen? 

Owner: I think many guests come here looking for a rustic atmosphere or the feeling of a hidden village. The water is so abundant here that even regular homes have free-flowing springs. Many people visit specifically for the quality of the water itself.

―It must feel like returning to one’s hometown. 

Owner: Yes. I think many people come here with that exact feeling.

Redefining the “Culinary Inn”

―I feel that Toryukan has a distinct character compared to other places. 

Owner: We focus on being a “culinary inn.” Aizu is very rich in local ingredients, but I feel there aren’t many places yet where you can experience the true depth of that food. Anyone can serve local food in the traditional way. We want to go further by using Aizu ingredients with different cooking styles, or by pairing local seasonings with seasonal ingredients from across the country. 

―That is a different appeal from just serving local food as it is. 

Owner: Yes. If everyone does the same thing, there is no depth. By offering something unique, we can expand the guest’s imagination. We want to be an inn where you can truly feel the depth of the cuisine.

―Do many guests come specifically for the food? 

Owner: Yes. We have guests who visit once a month, which we are very grateful for. We are truly supported by repeat guests who look forward to the meals.

Anticipating the Needs of Every Guest

―Is there anything you prioritize regarding hospitality? 

Okami: Before guests arrive, I try to imagine who they are. We see everyone from young couples with babies to couples in their 70s. I try to imagine why they chose us and what kind of experience they are looking for before they even step through the door.

―And that changes how you serve them?

Okami: Yes. For example, if a young couple arrives with a baby, I imagine they want to relax in the springs together or escape the stress of daily life and parenting. I want them to feel a sense of luxury that is different from their everyday routine. 

―You are thinking about how to support the guest’s special time. 

Okami: Most people are looking for something extraordinary when they travel. They might dress up a bit, visit somewhere new, or look forward to a first-time experience. If we can provide even one thing that meets those needs, it becomes a special memory for them. I try to pay close attention to those details.

Human Connections in a Changing Environment

― It cannot be easy to maintain a historic inn in this area. What is your motivation? 

Owner: I often visit inns across Japan and travel abroad for work. I always feel that a place becomes truly wonderful because of its atmosphere and the people who live there. Nature alone is beautiful, but I believe people are truly moved when they connect with other people.

―This feeling connects to why you stay here.

Owner: Yes. This area is facing a shrinking population, but because our inn exists, people still come here. If that cycle continues, I believe we can share the unique beauty of this place with the rest of the world. That is my motivation.

Preserving Minamiaizu for the Next Generation

―How do you personally feel about the charm of this area?

Okami: Tokyo has every convenience, but because this is the countryside, we have nature and traditions that have been protected for a long time. We enjoy these things in our daily lives, and I want to pass that beauty on to the current generation and to future children. 

―You feel a responsibility to protect the local culture. 

Okami: Yes. Some traditions are actually easier to protect in the countryside. I want to tell the whole world, not just Japan, what a wonderful place Minamiaizu is.

Tracing the history of Toryukan reveals the wisdom of ancestors who wanted to make hot springs more accessible and comfortable for everyone.

Today, that history lives on through the depth of the culinary experience, the care taken to create special moments for every guest, and the effort to protect the local community. These feelings were clear in the words of both the owner and the Okami.

The hot springs, the food, and the hospitality are all part of the time that flows through this region. Toryukan is an inn that carries the history of Yunogami Onsen forward, handing the charm of Minamiaizu to the next generation and to the world beyond.

Interviewer: Yohei Osaki
Translation: Alyssa Rossi