Located in Iga City, Mie Prefecture, “HAKUSEN” is a unique hotel created through the renovation of the former Iga Ueno City Hall, originally designed by renowned architect Junzo Sakakura.
The same building houses the Iga City Central Library, allowing guests to borrow books and bring them back to their rooms to read.
It is not just about visiting a famous piece of architecture, but spending an entire night inside it.
The long corridors surrounding the central courtyard, aged window panes, and the sound of the musical siren echoing through the city.
Moving back and forth between the library and your guest room creates a peaceful stay completely immersed in literature and architecture.
Immersed in the Library
I love libraries.
Being surrounded by vast amounts of text can sometimes feel overwhelming. Yet the moment you open a book, you effortlessly step into a world that belongs entirely to you.
What would it feel like to spend the night inside a library like this?
Picking out a book you love, bringing it back to your room, and reading until sleepiness sets in. At HAKUSEN, that is exactly how you can spend your evening.
Staying in Junzo Sakakura’s Former Iga Ueno City Hall
HAKUSEN is set inside the former Iga Ueno City Hall building designed by Junzo Sakakura.
Once an administrative city hall, the structure has been repurposed as “SAKAKURA BASE (Former Iga Ueno City Hall),” a shared community hub coexisting with accommodations, a public library, and other spaces.
The hotel opened in 2025, followed by the official opening of the Iga City Central Library in April 2026.
Arriving here brought to mind a concept familiar to backpackers: “sinking.”
Among travelers, “sinking” refers to liking a destination so much that you end up staying far longer than originally planned.
Reading books, strolling through town, or simply doing nothing at all to pass the day. HAKUSEN is suited for exactly that style of travel.
The name HAKUSEN (“staying boat”) draws on a metaphor: viewing the library as a lake of words, and the hotel as a boat floating quietly on its surface. Arriving here makes you want to drop anchor and stay awhile.
The Courtyard and Musical Siren
Stepping inside the building, your eyes are drawn to expansive glass windows and a lush green courtyard. Wide hallways and guest rooms extend along the perimeter of the courtyard.
Inside the room, you are greeted by clean furniture, curated art pieces, and natural light pouring in through large windows.
Looking out toward the courtyard, a white box-like object catches the eye. It is the municipal musical siren.
At noon, its tone suddenly resonates throughout the entire structure. Though mechanically produced, the sound carries a surprising warmth. I naturally stepped out of my room and into the corridor to listen.
Funded by citizen donations in 1959, Iga’s musical siren has been a familiar local presence for decades. For travelers, it is a novel sound; for local residents, it is a natural backdrop to daily life. In that moment, you feel seamlessly connected to the rhythm of the town.
Step Inside the Architecture
Walking downstairs brings you directly into the Iga City Central Library. Large windows and high ceilings create a bright, open space where your line of sight extends far into the background.
Traces of the building’s administrative history remain preserved throughout.
Original floor tiles.
Aged glass panes.
Chiseled patterns (bishan-tataki) left on concrete walls.
Looking through the old glass panes, the outside scenery appears slightly wavy and distorted.
The renovation design for both the library and hotel facilities was led by MARU.architecture. They restructured the layout to suit modern travelers while preserving the building’s distinctive historical character.
The original builders.
The employees who worked here.
The community members who campaigned to preserve it.
And the designers who gave it a second life.
Amid these accumulated layers of time, spending a single night here allows you to become a small part of the building’s ongoing story, making the stay feel exceptionally special.
Spending the Night Inside Historic Architecture
In architectural travel, you usually have to leave a building when closing time arrives. At HAKUSEN, however, you get to stay inside.
You watch the crowds disperse, the light shift, and night fall over the structure. The next morning, you wake up to a completely different quality of light.
Experiencing the passage of time inside the same architectural space is a privilege reserved exclusively for overnight guests.
The short walk between the library and your guest room feels comfortable and effortless. When you want solitude, you return to your room. When you feel like stepping out and connecting with the outside world, you head down to the library. Just beyond that sits the town of Iga.
A Night Settle In with a Library Book
In the evening, head down to the library to pick out a book for the night. HAKUSEN guests can use a special library borrowing card provided by the hotel to take books up to their rooms.
Selecting a book to keep you company for the evening transforms a familiar library experience into something special.
Guest rooms are thoughtfully appointed with bookshelves from Nagatani-en, local Iga-ware pottery, and stationery organizers from Kakimori.
Reading.
Reflecting.
Writing down your own thoughts if inspiration strikes.
Traveling simply to read a good book is a luxury worth planning for.
One Night Is Not Enough
After spending time at HAKUSEN, you quickly realize that a single night is not nearly enough.
Visiting the library in the morning, strolling through town during the day, and returning to rest whenever you feel tired. Hotel staff are also happy to recommend local restaurants and neighborhood activities.
While Iga is widely known as a ninja heartland, setting aside packed itineraries to become a temporary “library resident” offers a wonderfully rewarding way to travel.
Rather than visiting just to admire famous architecture, you spend unhurried time living alongside it.
Every book contains countless words and accumulated thoughts that no one can fully exhaust in a single day. Tonight, pick up a book that sparks your curiosity and immerse yourself in its pages.
Drop anchor in this boat floating on a lake of words, and pause for a while. As for where to go tomorrow, you can decide after finishing your book.
